Although Shanghai is on the sea, it long lacked the prosperity that Hong Kong enjoyed, so while Hong Kong became known for its exotic ocean creatures, Shanghai built its diet around more commonplace river and sea fish.

Evan Osnos' quote contrasts the culinary traditions of Shanghai and Hong Kong, highlighting how their different levels of prosperity influenced their respective diets. He explains that while Shanghai is located by the sea, it historically did not have the same wealth or international exposure that Hong Kong enjoyed. As a result, Shanghai’s culinary focus was more on commonplace river and sea fish, which were more readily available and affordable, rather than the exotic ocean creatures that became a hallmark of Hong Kong's cuisine.

The reference to Hong Kong becoming known for its exotic ocean creatures emphasizes the city’s global trade connections and wealth, which allowed it to access a variety of rare and luxury foods. In contrast, Shanghai, despite its proximity to the sea, developed a more practical and local diet, centered around fish that were abundant in the region, reflecting its more limited access to high-end culinary ingredients during its earlier periods of development.

Osnos uses this comparison to highlight how economic prosperity can influence not only the availability of food but also cultural perceptions of taste and culinary refinement. Shanghai’s focus on more accessible fish types became a defining feature of its regional cuisine, one that balanced practicality with the abundance of the nearby river and sea.

In essence, the quote underscores how economic factors shape food culture, with Hong Kong's wealth allowing for exotic, luxurious ingredients while Shanghai's more modest resources led to a focus on locally sourced and more commonplace foods. This reflects broader historical and cultural dynamics that influence culinary practices across regions.